Text and photos from Abigail Rome and Kyra Cruz
La Amistad is a lodge and tourism program built and managed by a valiant group of women on Isla de Chira, in the middle of the Gulf of Nicoya. When a sudden and severe decline of fish populations in the gulf left them without their traditional source of income, a small, self-determined group of women turned to tourism as a way to make a living. They bought land ; built a boat, a lodge, a kitchen and dining room ; and developed trails and a program of activities for visitors. For three years, they faced and overcame a multitude of challenges, including a complete lack of knowledge of construction and tourism services ; no financial resources ; strong criticism from the community ; and outright rejection by their husbands. The results have been tremendous and varied. The women have much stronger self esteem ; the community realizes the importance of diversification of livelihoods and natural resource conservation ; and island residents are organizing themselves and making money as artisans or in tourism related services.
Visitors are greeted by the women at the small port of San Pablo de Nandayure, where they board a boat for a tour of the mangroves on the way to Isla de Chira. Along the way, they observe aquatic birdlife and learn about the fishing heritage of local communities. Within half an hour they arrive at the island (population ca. 3000) and are taken to La Amistad lodge, situated just off the road in a dry tropical forest. With room for only 12 overnight guests, visitors can expect a very low-key, tranquil environment. They will receive meals which have been cooked in one of the two simple solar ovens located between the lodge and the dining room/kitchen 15 meters away. The women prepare locally harvested fish in a variety of ways, as well as other traditional foods that islanders normally eat.
During a recommended two-day stay with the “women of Chira” guests may ride bikes (provided) to the island crafts center, to visit one or more of the three villages on the 51 km2 island, or to the beach for swimming. They may hike through the small protected forest next to the lodge up to a lookout point to get an excellent view of sunrise, sunset and the Gulf of Nicoya. And, they can learn about island life, fishing practices, handicrafts and the impressive history of the women’s endeavors to organize themselves to build the lodge and enter into tourism. For those who want to rest, there is plenty of time to lie in a hammock and relax without interruptions except for the chirping of native birds.
Localisation
How to get to Isla de Chira ?
From Puntarenas : Take the San José-Puntarenas-Punta Morales-Costa de Pájaros route. At the Pier in Costa de Pájaros, take the public boat to Chira. Leaves at 7:00 a.m. and 1 p.m. (45 minutes trip), followed by a 20 minutes car trip to Palito community.
From Guanacaste : Take the road to Playa Naranjo. At San Pablo de Nandayure, take a left turn and drive for 5 km. We provide boat transportation on previous notice.
By bus : San José-Cañas, Las Juntas o Liberia bus from 24 th Street, 5th-7 th Avenue (Pulmitan de Liberia Tel. 256 95 52). Get off at Chomes entrance. In front of Chomes Clinic get the bus to Costa de Pájaros. From here get a boat to Isla Chira where out local guide will be waiting for you.
Private transport : Ask ACTUAR for competitive prices.
The Person to Contact : Kyra Cruz Meyer
Telephone : (506)362-9188
Fax : (506)228-5695
E-mail : actuar@racsa.co.cr
Web site : www.actuarcostarica.com
Cultural information about the community
The women of Chira Island are heirs to the legend of Chira, a beautiful Chorotega princess who was brought to the island by a love-stricken Nakaome, guardian of the Barra Honda secret temple. The story says the young guardian stole her away from a Nicoyan tribe and gave her the island as wedding present. The guardian lost his job and the Chorotegas their princess, but the island was thus populated. Centuries later, 200 families live in Chira, based around five small settlements dispersed along the island. Some grow corn in the flatter parts while a few introduced cattle and poultry for their subsistence. But fishing has always been the backbone of their lives, and fishing, their traditional source of food and income, keeps getting harder inside the Gulf, within the most over-fished of Costa Rica’s coastal waters.
Accommodation :
Lodge with 2 quad rooms and private bathrooms, and 1 dormitory with shared bathroom.
Other services :
- Walking and cycling trails
- Viewing platforms
- Tours to the Gulf islands
- Bird watching
- Fishing
Chira Island One Day Adventure (1D)
Boat trip along the impressive mangrove forest which holds 5 of the 7 mangrove species in Costa Rica ! Observe and learn about the artisan fishing practices. Visit to Paloma Island, a sanctuary of aquatic birds. Arrive to Chira Island and bike to La Amistad lodge. Lunch. Chat on Chira Island Women Association.
The treasure of the Chorotega Princess (2D/1N)
Day 1 : Arrive at Costa de Pájaros where your guide will be waiting for you. Take a bot trip to Chira Island (30´). Transfer to La Amistasd Lodge. Chat on the women´s project and delicious sea food lunch. Bike trip to Palito Pier. Mangrove boat tour. Dinner and legends of Chira Island.
Day 2 : Early birdwatching tour to Chira´s viewpoint. Breakfast. Bike tour to Bonita Beach. Take a swim and relax ! Bike back to La Amistad Lodge. Lunch and boat back to main land.
ISLA DE CHIRA -Rates
Prices in US dollars - Prices per person.
Valid until December 2005.
Activity
Individual - 1-7 people * or Groups - 8-20 people**
Chira Island One Day Adventure (1D) $40.00 $34.00
The treasure of the Chorotega Princess (2D/1N) $56.00 $50.00