Text and Photos : Niseth van der Meulen
Twyfelfontein is the Afrikaans word for “doubtful fountain”, indicating the uncertainty of water supply. The name was given to the site by a commercial farmer trying to make a living in the area. He did not stay long. The local Damara people however, have been here for centuries. They also try to make a living as small stock farmers. This harsh profession has never managed to lift them out of poverty.
Tourism is a far better option as the Twyfelfontein area is full of spectacular scenery, wildlife and most of all : historical rock engravings. Twyfelfontein is a National monument and houses rock engravings made by Bushman some six millennium ago ! The figures mainly consist of animals. The weird thing about most of these animals is that they have exaggerated features ; a lion with a very long tail, or a three headed ostrich. The guides can tell you that this is an expression of how the Bushmen saw the animals when they were in trance. Even seals and penguins can be found in the middle of the dessert… The theory behind this is that bushmen have travelled to the coast where they encountered these animals and drew them on return.
To cut a long story short : it is a unique place. UNESCO shares the opinion and is currently investigating the opportunity of turning it into a World Heritage Site.
Local people have been “guiding” here for years, trying to make an extra income but their lack of knowledge of the engravings and the English language made that they did not have much to offer to the tourists.
Three years ago the National monument Counsel of Namibia stepped in and together with NACOBTA assisted the guides in gaining the necessary skills. Today, 20 proud Namibian guides are ready to take you up the rocks and explain every detail of these magnificent engravings to you. They can also explain the culture of the Bushman who have lived here thousands of years ago and add local knowledge about the site, flora and fauna. Extra information is provided at the interpretation centre at the entrance of the site.
The area has more to offer. Close by are the Organ pipes, a very strange rock formation looking like strips of rock packed together. There are some up-market lodges in the vicinity that offer you every luxury you can imagine. The lodge owners have an agreement with the local community to pay a fee for using the natural resources the community is looking after. For this purpose, the community has formed a Co-operation : the Uisbasen Conservancy. A campsite owner by a member of the community further expands the tourism offer of the area. Both lodges and campsite offer a variety of activities such as balloon flights, game drives, and hiking trails. In other words, there is enough on offer to keep you there for 2 nights.
While sipping your gin and tonic and watching the setting suns turn the rocks red you can only agree that the Twyfelfontein area is the most fascinating you have ever experienced.
Location
Twyfelfontein is situated in the Southern part of the Kunene province in the North West of Namibia. You can fly in or arrive by car.
From Khorixas : Take the C 39 main gravel road towards the coast. Turn left onto the D 2612 and continue for 15 km, then turn right onto the D 3214 and drive another 6 km.
From the south : At about 45 km from Khorixas you turn from the C 35 main road onto the D 2612 on your left. Continue for about 65 km and turn left again, onto the D 3214 and drive another 6 km.
Please note that the D 2612 is not very suitable for ordinary vehicles coming from the South. It has some sandy patches which are difficult to negotiate, especially after rainfalls. Therefore a 4x4 vehicle is advisable.
Contact
Twyfelfontein Guides
P.O.Box 158, Khorixas
Tel. : 067-697983
Fax : 067-697023
Internet : www.nacobta.com.na
It is not necessary to make a booking in advance : the guides are available 7 days a week from 8 AM till 5 PM. The common language is English or Afrikaans.
Cultural Information
As the rock engravings are estimated to be about 6000 years old, the culture and history of the region is long and diverse. After the Bushmen, the Damara people moved into the area. Traditionally, the Damara community was surviving as nomads but there is proof that they have been keeping small herds for centuries. It is one of the most acient groups of people in the country.
Poverty is still a huge problem in the area but tourism is increasingly offering alternatives to small stock farming. The people from Twyfelfonterin are friendly, helpful and welcoming. Living in one of the most spectacular areas of Namibia has made them very proud of their home and they love to tell you more about it.
Range of activities and services offered
Target : families, groups, and individuals
Recommended seasons : All through the year, but the summer months (November-February) can be extremely hot and you are advised to visit the site early mornings or late afternoons.
Types of tours provided : 1-2 hour tours into Twyfelfontein Site. The lodge 5 km. from the site also offers hikes, game-drives, and balloon flights. An hour drive from Twyfelfontein is the Petrified Forest in the east and two hours away lays the Brandberg with its magnificent rock paintings.
Short description of the services offered : Cultural/historical tours to the Twyfelfontein rock engravings and the organ pipes.