Text : Cristina Eghenter, Photos : Borneo Ecotourism
As the small plane lands on the airstrip in Long Rungan, indifferent buffaloes wander off the grassy strip and joyous children approach the plane to greet the passengers of the small Cessna plane operated by MAF. No matter who is coming, the genuine hospitality of the people in the Krayan highlands is expressed in many ways including small gestures like smiling faces of children who welcome the visitors. Long Rungan is a small settlement in the customary land of Krayan Hulu.
The highlands of Krayan are located in the “Heart of Borneo,” along the northern part of the western border of Indonesia with Sarawak (Malaysia) on the island of Borneo. Gentle slopes covered in dense forests, and wide valleys interlaced with rice paddies, gardens and fruit groves create a unique and pleasant landscape in the Krayan, a combination of human-crafted agricultural setting and natural forests.
The scenery is gentle yet exciting jungle treks and enclaves await to be discovered. The cool climate of the highlands is also a nice break from the hot and humid climate of the lowlands of Borneo. The tradition of hospitality is deeply rooted in the ways of the Dayak Lundayeh and Sa’ban people of the highlands : food is plentiful and served to the visitors on several occasions ; dances are performed ; and visitors are invited to enjoy the surroundings or simply share a “different” day working away in the rice fields with the host family, or explore the salt spring where local people have traditionally been producing “mountain salt” and traded it locally and regionally. The women of the highlands are famous for their artistry in making colourful handicrafts such as baskets of various shapes and sizes, trays, mats, and sunhats. A visitor can spend time with the women learning some of the basic weaving a plaiting skills.
A community-based pilot project in ecotourism was started in the customary land of Krayan Hulu in 2002. The area comprises three communities : Long Rungan (the smallest village and located downriver on the Krayan River), Pa’ Upan (mid-river), and Long Layu (upriver, the biggest community of about 600 people and now also the site of the new sub-district, Krayan Selatan). Part of this area is included in the Kayan Mentarang National Park, one of the largest sub-montane and montane rainforest conservation areas in South-East Asia. Local people were concerned with developing ways in which a conservation area could really benefit the local economy and managing local natural resources in sustainable ways.
The inspiration for the community-based ecotourism initiative came as a result of a cross-visit to Sabah (Malaysia) where several communities had been developing this kind of enterprise. WWF Indonesia Kayan Mentarang National Park project facilitated the planning and development of the program, including training, promotion, information-sharing, cross- and study visits, and local organizational capacity building.
In 2003, the local ecotourism committee has become a NGO by the name of Tana Tam Krayan Hulu, which means our land of Krayan Hulu. The new organization maintains contacts with community organizations across the border in Sarawak and Sabah, and together they try to develop cross-boundary ecotourism. Tana Tam Krayan Hulu has also opened a small office and souvenir shop in the coastal town of Tarakan, the largest town in the northern part of East Kalimantan. Tarakan is connected by plane daily to Balikpapan and Jakarta, and weekly to Tawau (Malaysia) and the Krayan highlands. Tourists visiting the Krayan Hulu area would not only enjoy an outstanding experience in the Heart of Borneo but their contribution to the local economy would reinforce the commitment of local communities for sustainable development and conservation.
Location
There are Missionary Aviation Fellowship (MAF) flights from Tarakan to Long Bawan 3 times a week (small planes sitting 4-5 people). MAF also flies to Long Layu, Tang Laan, and Long Rungan 1-2 times/week from Long Bawan. DAS flies from Tarakan to Long Bawan, the center of the Krayan sub-district, 2 times a week. Bookings must be made well in advance. Also, DAS flies 3 times a week from the town of Nunukan to Long Bawan. Tarakan is connected daily by plane to Balikpapan and Jakarta, and weekly to Tawau (Sabah, Malaysia). Several speedboats operate daily between Tarakan and Nunukan.
Contact
Oktavianus Ramli (Mr) and Gat Kaleb (Mr)
LSM Tana Tam Krayan Hulu
Jalan Diponegoro No 18,
Tarakan, Kalimatan Timur Indonésie OR
c/o WWF Kayan Mentarang National Park,
Jalan Gunung Belah 188, Tarakan Kalimantan Timur, Indonesia
Tel. : 62 551 34010 (LSM Tana Tam)
Tel. : 62 551 21723 (WWF KMNP)
Fax : 62 551 21507 (WWF KMNP)
Email : Tana_tam@yahoo.com (LSM Tana Tam) OR
awing@samarinda.org (WWF KMNP)
Internet : www.borneo-ecotourism.com
Language : Indonesian or English
Othercontacts
Please contact the staff at LSM Tana Tam Krayan Hulu for inquiries on planes and trasportation to the Krayan area.
Cultural Information
The three communities are part of the customary land of Krayan Hulu. The land is in the sub-district of Krayan Selatan. The area has historically been inhabited by Dayak Sa’ban originating from the south (Hulu Bahau) and Dayak Lundayeh (Lengilu) people who have come to the highlands from downriver. It is still a mystery though regarding who carved the megalithic still visible in the area. Customary law still plays an important role in the social life of Dayak people in the interior of Borneo. While the land lies close to the international border between Malaysia and Indonesia, the communities on both side of the border share many customs and the same language. Local people often travel back and forth from Bario, an highland community in Sarawak, Malaysia, which can be reached on foot in 2 days. The common cultural heritage and kinship ties make the area across the border a unique destination for cross-boundary ecotourism.
For basic information on the area, please refer to the web-site. On archaeological aspects, please refer to the book, “Social Science Research and Conservation Management in the Interior of Borneo, CIFOR, WWF Indonesia, Unesco, and Ford Foundation 2003, and other scientific publications.
The community has drafted a basic code of conduct for tourists visiting the area. The most important aspect is the respect of local regulations, culture and nature. Tourists are advised not to go on trips alone and always use local guides, and respect decisions on prices and fees that have been set by Ecotourism Committee.
Recommended Tours
The Ecotourism Committee in Krayan Hulu has opened homestay accommodation for tourists. Facilities are modest but adequate, and the unspoiled and friendly atmosphere in the villages make for a great and unforgettable visit. Local guides, arranged through the Ecotourism Committee, are ready to accompany tourists on daily trips to various sites. Upon request, the Ecotourism Committee can also arrange for a performance of traditional dances. Tourists can purchase special handicrafts in the villages, especially bamboo baskets and mats.
Organization
The LSM (=Indonesian for NGO) Tana Tam Krayan Hulu was founded in 2003 with the explicit intent to develop community-based ecotourism in the area of Krayan Hulu as a way to develop an economic alternative to logging or other destructive ways to exploit the natural environment in the buffer-zone of the Kayan Mentarang National Park. Ecotourism is an industry that is potentially sustainable, but in order to be so it is important to create conditions under which communities can exercise control over their land, and retain autonomy and power of decision-making over the tourist development in accord with their own vision of the future. By means of this program, the committees seek to build the capacity of local people in various aspects concerning the development and management of ecotourism, and strengthen linkages and collaborations with the local Tourism Office (Dinas Pariwisata dan Kebudayaan) in order to build and promote community-based ecotourism as a sustainable and economically viable alternative for the border area of northern East Kalimantan (Heart of Borneo). The organization is an inter-community organization. Each one of the communities involved has a village-based committee to organize and oversee local activities and initiatives. An appointed coordinating committee (Head, General Secretary, Treasurer) guarantees overall coordination and relations with outside organizations and other partners.